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Archives for: July 2005, 01

07/01/05

Fjord snob

This place has probably ruined me for all the other fjords of the world. Where we are now is part of Nordvestfjord, and in addition to being part of the world's longest and widest fjord system it is also the world's deepest charted fjord.

More specifically, since yesterday we have been anchored in a branch of Nordvestfjord. There are no indications of depth marked on our chart for this apparently un-named fjord - meaning it has probably never been properly surveyed. It is (relatively) small, being only about 27 miles (44km) long, and there is a chance (though I think only a small one) that we are the first ship ever to anchor here. Certainly, around the corner, the branch leading to the face of Daugaard-Jensen glacier is chock full of glacier ice. Hundreds of chunks of it, ranging in size from little growlers to massive icebergs - all moving. Some of that ice makes its way into this branch as well, probably blocking it completely at times.

We do know, however, that we are not the very first visitors. On the hill nearby is what Greenlanders call an inussuk, a cairn in English, left to show that someone once before visited this place.

- Andrew

Work continues despite stunning scenery

We are now in the world's largest national park, near the head of the world's largest fjord. The physical beauty of this place is so extreme that it challenges our ability to work and sleep. You literally have to force yourself to stop staring at all the icebergs, mountains and the rest of it, and get on with the job. I know it sounds crazy, but if you've ever been to a place like this I'm sure you understand - otherwise just take my word for it.

Unparalleled beauty or not though, the work has to go on, and as always there is quite a lot of it. Everyone puts in full days, and longer whenever needed. It's half past midnight here, according to ship's time, and the scientists are still out on the ice. For most of today the glacier was covered in fog, and there was a low cloud ceiling overhead - so they're taking advantage of the good weather while it lasts.

- Andrew


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